Tags
Regardless of whether you are a general or specialty photographer (see Part 1), your camera will only keep you happy if you get the images you want. For that every camera has to be adjustable to meet your need. You need to consider the following.
Low light without flash – you must be able to adjust the ISO on your camera. This is a measure of the sensitivity of the sensor to light: the higher the number the more sensitive. Evening wedding banquets, indoor sports arenas, inside offices – light will be dimmer than you think (your eyes see better than your camera). You need to be able to adjust your camera at least up to ISO 1600.
This image was taken inside Hoover Dam, where as you can imagine the lighting is not very bright. I had to hand-hold the camera (no tripods allowed) so in order to get a fast enough shutter speed I ran the ISO up to 1600.
Higher ISO settings do increase the “noise” in your image – speckles that hurt fine details and become visible in the picture. The picture on the left below was made at ISO 3200 because the sun had not come up yet and I needed a shutter speed fast enough to hand-hold the camera. The enlargement on the right shows the ‘noise’ in the image.
 |
 |
Check camera reviews to find out which cameras keep noise down at high ISO. By the way, smaller sensors get “noisier” at lower ISO settings so for this size does matter.
Freezing action – you must be able to adjust the shutter speed on your camera. Stopping runners at a track meet, birds in flight, people dancing – the faster the shutter speed the more action you can stop. Fortunately most cameras now go up to 1/2000 second (some higher) which is pretty fast. Of more importance is how easy is it to adjust the shutter speed. Flipping through several screens in a menu to find a fast shutter speed while your bald eagle flies away can be frustrating. Look for a thumbwheel you can easily and quickly turn to get the speed you need.
 |
 |
Depth of field – you want to be able to easily adjust the aperture on your camera. Say you want a photograph of your daughter playing in a field of flowers where she is in focus and the flowers (or bulldozer) behind her is blurred. Nice art look to bring attention to the subject of the photograph and eliminate all that distracting background. Depth of field is controlled by the camera’s aperture, usually called the f/stops. Smaller f/stops (f/4, f/5.6) mean narrow depth of field to keep your daughter in focus and the background not. Higher f/stops (f/16, f/22) mean wide depth of field to keep your family and the Grand Canyon they are standing next to all in focus.
|
|
f/22
f/3.5As with shutter speed, you want to be able to adjust this quickly. Look for a thumbwheel or fast-action buttons.
Beyond these basics there are probably hundreds of features offered and the list can drive you crazy if you let it. Want to shoot video? Will it be 720 or 1080? Want art filters to process your images in the camera instead of computer? What kind of storage do you want to use – CF, SD, etc.? What about battery life? Will you be using the RAW or JPG format to save files? [RAW is unprocessed right out of the sensor and JPG lets the camera process the image for you – the former results in larger files than the latter, meaning fewer images on your storage device.] Do you want a viewfinder or are you OK with holding the camera at arm’s length to compose? How big a screen on the back (which is where you’ll see your pictures most often)? Each of these features brings with it benefits that may be of value to you – something you have to determine for your type of photography. Just don’t let the features get in the way of your understanding of the basic controls of the camera and how to change settings to get what you want.
And remember ergonomics – is the camera a joy to hold or a pain to wrap your fingers around? Can you get a good grip on it or does it feel like you’re holding on with your fingertips? Are the controls easily accessed and in a logical layout? Those basic functions you want to control – are they assigned to specific buttons, do you have to push several buttons or are they buried in a menu tree? How much weight are you willing to lug around all day?
Gets complicated fast. Still, it’s just a tool you want to fit you, not the other way around. Keep in mind the vast majority of features on cameras lie unused, either because they don’t help the photography process or because users don’t know they are there. Don’t get dazzled by all the bells and whistles. Photography is a pretty mature technology where you control the amount of light going into a box so an image is focused and captured for future viewing. The basic controls haven’t changed in over 100 years – everything else is just fancy wrapping.
Pingback: 2012 « 1001 Scribbles
Pingback: TOP (or not…) « 1001 Scribbles
This was really interesting to read! I’m not a photographer myself, but this certainly provides some wonderful insight were I to ever consider it 🙂
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for reading and for the compliment.
“everything else is just fancy wrapping” love it!
I’ve got an old Brownie on my shelf that uses film Kodak doesn’t make anymore. It’s a black box with a hole on one side and film rollers on the other. One aperture, one shutter speed. As far as making an image, not much has changed since then. Hey, some people love Model T’s and some Ferarris but both get you around. All else is styling and degrees of convenience.
Nicely wirtten. Plenty of good stuff to chew on for the would-be camera buyer.
One thing I’d suggest, after the choice is made: whatever is purchased, take the time to sit down and go through the manual with the camera in hand. I do this every time I buy a new camera (which isn’t very often, I hasten to add 🙂 ) and while it can be a bit time-consuming depending on the length of the manual, I’ve never, ever regretted it.
Yes, yes, yes! With so many features, buttons and dials on today’s cameras (even the “simple” ones) reading the manual is a critical part of ownership. If reading is not your learning style, hook up with someone who has the same camera and learn by doing. And many local camera stores offer classes introducing users to their camera – check for those schedules. Finally, the web is full of videos and how-to blogs covering an array of camera brands, models and styles. You’re probably closer than you think to learning how to use your camera.
With so many options out there, it can be daunting for some folks. Well written post!!!
Thank you. Sometimes just getting to the basics helps remind you why you are trying to make the decision in the first place.
Pingback: Guest posts « Mel Mann Photography – The Blog
So starter camera before upgrading to a ti3 rebel? any recommendations? 😀
Hmmm. Starter camera is a tough question for me. I would definitely look at the electronic viewfinder, interchangeable lens (EVIL) cameras like Olympus, Panasonic and the new Nikon. Many of the features of a DSLR in a smaller package but more versatile than a point-and-shoot.
I’ve very much considered the Olympus line as well, Not sure I should go into the whole high end camera thing until I am more accustomed to them. How come interchangable lenses are evil? 😀
EVIL has become the shorthand for this class of cameras. I think it was started by people who have already invested in expensive DSLR kits and are now wishing they had waited! As it turns out, though, you can get adapters for your EVIL camera that will mount many of your film or other digital lenses so you can experiment.
very nice post!!!!!!!
Thanks for reading and the compliment! Hope it’s good advice for you.